If Cancun is American in tone, then Playa del Carmen is its European counterpart. Artsy and bohemian, this small beach town is laid-back and casual, with scattered local lodging. Playa was a remote fishing village not ten years ago, and it has retained its intimacy and warmth, evidenced by the plethora of coffee shops and palapa huts where you can sip a fruit shake and take in the surroundings. Beaches and walkways are crowded even in the off season, and makeshift shops, rental huts and accommodations have sprouted up practically overnight. Waterfront bars and discos are another highlight, so it may be worth sticking around for the night. Plots of white sand and translucent waters in Playa have the picturesque beauty characteristic of the Caribbean coast but at the rate it is being developed, you will want to get there soon.

On the beach, there are plenty of accessible, affordable restaurants and bars. When you tire of sunbathing and happy hours, its easy to pick up snorkeling equipment, take a windsurfing lesson, or get a massage.

Directions from Cancun

From the Hotel Zone, catch the R-1 bus to the Estación de autobuses (bus station) downtown on Av Tulum and Uxmal. First class buses have A/C, comfortable seats, and TVs. They leave every 15 minutes and travel nonstop to Playa del Carmen for $4. Avoid sitting at the back, near the bathrooms.

First class buses pull into the station at Av 5 and Av Juarez. Av 5 runs parallel to the beach, and is teeming with souvenir vendors, restaurants and bars. Expect to be beckoned from all sides by shop owners and hostesses vying for business. Walking north along Av 5, the commotion quiets and the atmosphere becomes more peaceful, especially north of Calle 10.